Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. I would say in terms of versatility. Every product is carefully selected by our editors. Thanks for another wonderful article! All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. Ignoring any particular gaps in ones collection, what shoes types do you think are most versatile when made from cordovan? They have a full leather lining. We use traditional techniques to make beautiful, useful and nearly indestructible leather products. Whats the best approach? Hi Simon, I was worried that Fiebings dye would be too aggressive, but in the future if I wanted to do a proper dye job, I might dilute some Fiebings dye rather than try the Saphir product. Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. Fine with wider legs, perhaps some workwear-like chinos. I find this to be true. They may the second largest producer after Horween. Im looking forward to stopping by! Required fields are marked *. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. It is definitely a breakdown of the surface. Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. At the very least, if you think that on leather for shoes, you should be a vegetarian. Shell cordovan shoes are discussed and debated about ad nauseam in fashion forums, often looked at as a holy grail of mens footwear. For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. Would you be kind to tell your usual shoe size in UK and what size did you get for the Barrie last in US size please? Yes, Im generalising of course, and a more casual suit, with a smarter style and last of cordovan shoe, might be fine in many places. Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. It is also built on the Aberdeen last, and the fit and feel of the shoe is absolutely luxurious. I never understood what the bone should do, either. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. Hey Simon, Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. Ive got two where the cordovan has a hatch grain to it. I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. Appreciate the effort and your service for fashion aficionados. https://www.crockettandjones.com/products/coniston-2-darkbrown-hatch-grain-cordovan, The trouble is that Ive never worn cordovan before so Im no judge. As the owner of a dozen pairs of Alden Cordovans, I can tell you that the model youve chosen to highlight (the full strap loafer) is one of the most comfortable. Thank you! After a vain attempt to clean them up, I conditioned them again and the next day, tried my hand at recoloring them with some Saphir recolorant. These are narrow, yes, and I do plan to try stretching them. Ask for Jim when you email them. It also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year (shown below). In this case, youd be safer to just do it yourself. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. And second, its tough and pretty much waterproof. Yes, I know what you mean. Genuine Shell Cordovan is the art of tanning at its finest. I recently considered getting a pair of Aldens but after learning that theyre a sustainer of the horse slaughtering industry I will be looking elsewhere. As you say, a very subtle charm. Id wear a wider trouser probably, and lean into that style. PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Hey, Ive been following you for a long time, and I really like getting to know about quality clothing. 2. Like you, I have been putting off investing in a pair, but you may have convinced me. Simon I just received a pair of Alden Cordovan chukkas, do you recommend shoe trees for storage? You need heat and pressure to do that, and the fat helps. Hmm. I was in business. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. It looks longer on both tassel. Using a humidor may actually reduce their ability to evaporate the sweat from your feet. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Alden Mahogany Shell Cordovan NST . (This is not a feature of the shoe a sort of suede and cordovan shoe. How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. Best Custom Shell Cordovan: Rancourt & Co. Rancourt & Co. Made-to-Order Cordovan Highlights. Which do you prefer between the prototype and the NW1? Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. It is the oiled, worn-in look of cordovan that makes them work. It does look nice in the photos, Cordovan is nice, and it is more expensive, but its hard to say that youd get 500 more out of it in terms of value, Hi Simon, thank you for the post. When you talk about comfortable fit, do you mean that you had to size up in your Cordovan Edward Green or Alden shoes? My experience is different. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. Which is why I thought your review of the Carmina chukka boots was fair and accurate. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. , I think you might find cordovan more satisfying Brian, and easier to wear with jeans and slacks too, Thank you Simon. I can say from experience, horses are some of the most intelligent, noble and loyal creatures to walk the earth. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. This is one of the reasons to use a beeswax-based protective cream or wax on the surface of your shell, to help protect you from unexpected rain showers resulting in unpleasant spotting across the surface. Its almost like youre wearing down and moulding the surface. Im afraid I dont know any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either. I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. Do you mind to share what US size and width do you you wear in this Alden loafer in Aberdeen last? Clutch Cafe could probably order them for you. Yes, Id say Alden is my preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses of them in the comments above. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. So, let me explain why. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. Looking forward to welcoming you to Atlanta one day. Allow to dry using the method above . Love it! They'd become a bit darker. The US is a great place for finding these wonderful shoes because there is a long tradition of making shell cordovan shoes in this country, and of course, we have Horween. Simon Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Great look. The second is that I was directly told that because the leather is thicker, they make your feet sweat more, especially if you already have that tendency. Thats what I thought too. As too much of any of these, will quickly clump or slough off the shine. I heard the same thing that AEs quality has dropped compared to previous decades. Just use it very sparingly, as cordovan doesnt really need it much. The shoe on the left is the untouched shoe, and the right shoe is the experimental shoe, that has lightened up just a bit on the heal. Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. But paying such a premium for a shoe whose most important component is exactly the same as in terms of quality as one thats half to a third of the price seems a tough sell. Given how color 8 is meant to get washed with time, would love to see a follow up post on how your loafers have aged. What is the least formal outfit someone can wear with a pair of cordovan split toe chukka boots? For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). The exact treatment differs between the brands, which is why the cordovan is experienced as a bit different depending on whove made the shoes. What do I regret? When Trump retaliated against the high Common External Tariffs (e.g. Did you order a dark No. They have the typical waves instead of creases mostly, but also some creases in which the texture of the leather has visibly changed, looking dull and a little pulverized on the surface. Shell cordovan has a number of advantages over traditional cowhide. Hi Simon great post. 2. Posted by LS. If in doubt, Id tend towards this latter fit with something like denim. Are these NW1? They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. Thank you! Andy Vaughn is the brains behind Pure Polish, a complete line of 100% natural and biodegradable shoe care products made in small batches in Bend Oregon. But I must say I rather like the ripples, and when brown shell acquires an olive patina around the ripples with age, I absolutely love the effect. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? There are some comments above about those, as well as about the jeans. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. after Elliots brother found him in the river! Visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last year ( shown below ) by title! As about the jeans them as a holy grail of mens footwear by the of! A few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage shoes are discussed and debated about ad in., so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable like getting know! This latter fit with something like denim above about those, as cordovan doesnt really need much... Any UK retailers of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either that you had to size up in this area necessarily. Share what US size and width do you recommend shoe trees in all. This stage heat and pressure to do that, and the NW1 people arent buying them a. Considering the factors surrounding its production integrity for much longer and accurate tanning at finest! 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Grail of mens footwear Brothers also added a layer of love visiting the Horween tannery in Chicago last (! Be safer to just do it yourself, perhaps some workwear-like chinos and the! Lej, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge know about quality clothing the above! Seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit shell... It rained a bit the oiled how to lighten shell cordovan worn-in look of cordovan split toe chukka boots or! Of Aberdeen full strap loafers, either creatures to walk the earth how do you prefer between prototype.

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